Messages from Shoulder to Shoulder Travelers at Ilula Lutheran Hospital and surroundings
Thursday, January 29, 2026
January 28th (our last clinical day) and ethical dilemmas in global health
Tuesday, January 27, 2026
Day 13
Ilula, Tanzania
Today is the day before our last full day in Ilula. I am writing after a long but fulfilling day—one that began with a heart failure presentation at morning report and ended with a quiet walk through town.
I was nervous about the presentation this morning. The audience included both our visiting group and our Tanzanian hosts—hospital leadership, staff, and students training as clinical officers and nurses. As the day went on, a few comments and brief conversations reassured me that the topic had landed well. Nothing dramatic, just enough to let me exhale and carry on with the day.
Later in the evening, during my walk through town, I ran into two first-year clinical officer students. They were already in conversation with Dr. Randy and recognized me from the morning report. They told me they had assumed I was Tanzanian and were surprised by my American accent. That comment stayed with me. Earlier in the week, people had spoken to me in Swahili, only to realize I didn’t understand. This moment felt different—less awkward, more grounding.
The two students shared parts of their stories with me. They said they were “proud” of me, which caught me off guard. They talked about how they had hoped to become radiologists or dentists but enrolled in clinical officer training because of family expectations. There was no bitterness in how they spoke—just honesty. When we parted, I realized how easily that brief exchange had turned into a meaningful one. I felt honored to have listened, and quietly hopeful that the conversation may have stirred something for them, as it did for me.
Throughout the week, I made a conscious effort to be clinically present, and it has been rewarding. I learned through inpatient ward rounds with Dr. Joseph, the medical officer in charge, alongside Drs. Randy, Cole, John, Solveig, and Yusra. I scrubbed in on a cesarean section, performed bedside ultrasounds to guide clinical care, and learned about toxidromes through teaching with Dr. Cole. These moments, taken together, shaped my experience more than I anticipated.
During my walk that evening, it became clear how attached I have grown to Ilula. As our time here draws to a close, a quiet sadness has set in. I will miss the familiar streets—usually loud, but softer tonight. I will miss the children calling out “hello” and “how are you,” eager to practice their English. I will miss the constant hum of motorcycles, the honking of bajajis, the repeated “you are welcome” offered throughout the hospital day, the smell of earth mixed with fresh air after the afternoon rain, and even the Sunday church and choir.
It feels like a bittersweet moment—one I am not quite ready to leave behind.
Yours,
Tawa
Sunday, January 25, 2026
Meet Ken Temba, Optometrist
Ken is a clinical officer (like a physician’s assistant in
the US) who went back to school to become an optometrist. After 3 years of
coursework, he is in his final year – an internship or field work. He will be
able to test refraction, make the glasses, and refer patients with other eye
related problems to an ophthalmologist.
At the end of 2026, he will seek approval to be licensed as
an optometrist and begin serving patients in an Eye Department at Ilula Lutheran
Hospital. He will be the only optometrist in Ilula, with a catchment area of
about 100,000 people.
The hospital has identified three rooms for his practice – a
waiting room/showroom, a room for examination, and a room for fitting the ordered
lenses into the selected frames. I had a chance to see these rooms in action
during a visit to Kilimanjaro Christian Medical Center (KCMC) in Moshi,
Tanzania.
In addition to seeing patients at Ilula Hospital, Ken wants
to begin a mobile clinic, taking his refraction equipment into nearby towns and
villages that have no access to an optometrist. Ilula Lutheran Hospital will be
making a request to Global Health Ministries to provide start-up funding and
equipment for the new Eye Department.
Day 11 - Flex day
Hello everyone,
It's Manny coming through with the last input of the first cycle of posts. Today is Saturday, January 24, 2026, and day 11 in Tanzania (my day 7). I am excited for the day, not only because I finally gave my talk on toxic alcohols yesterday at the medical conference, but because of all the opportunities to do things without the pressure of having to. Some background of me, I am a first-year pharmacy resident at Woodwinds Hospital in Minnesota, and got my PharmD degree from Rutgers University in New Jersey.
Our morning started with a typical breakfast from our amazing cook, which included sweet yams, eggs, bananas, meat pies, and more! This was a refreshing meal after a cool shower. Although I have the luxury of having the second room in the guest house to myself, I still struggle with getting hot water haha.
The first journey of the day took us to the lab in Ilula where Emmanuel, the head of department, showed us his facility as well as new testing he is able to do. He was very excited to tell us about his Genesight machine. At the lab, we also had the opportunity to look at peripheral blood smears provided by Randy and learned of the 7 infectious diseases discoverable on peripheral smears.
After leaving the lab, we took a walk over to Ilula Orphanage Program (IOP), where we were warmly welcomed and greeted by all the children in song and dance. This day we learned about how the program started, how sponsorship occurs, and how the facilities are run. Although this was a short tour, it was very informative and inspiring, as some of the graduates go on to do great things.
From the IOP, a few of us continued the journey on foot to the Ilula health center. This is a government-run facility that has an outpatient department as well as a maternity ward. We went to meet up with an old friend, Adilly, and go on a tour of the place. This day I learned that I actually may like hiking and that Air Force 1’s are NOT the shoes for it 🤣.
At the end of the IOP tour, our group was cut in half again, down to ⅓ , with the others headed back to Ilula with bajaji’s. This quest was for Yusra’s water bottle. It has been two days since Yusra has had happiness, and retrieving this water bottle might have been the highlight of her day. On the way to Adilly’s, we heard some thunder and saw dark clouds and we ended up in a Bajaji. At first, we were doubtful of the pending downpour, but as I like to say, the locals know best. A few moments later, we had a downpour of rain, which Cole, Yusra, Adilly, and I enjoyed from the front porch of the house. I thought this was much needed for Adilly’s home garden, which has avocados, mangoes, guava, beans, papaya, and more!
During the rain, Adilly called what we THOUGHT was a bajaji, but shortly after the rain and a short walk, we met a hospital ambulance on the side of the road. So Cole, Yusra, and I took a bumpy, tight, ambulance ride home to Ilula hospital just in time for lunch (I definitely went airborne a couple of times lol). After lunch was chill time, where we sat together and shared stories from the day.
The last and final journey took us downtown to find a place to find a cool drink. This place was called the “Peace garden,” and we got local beer, soda, and their famous ginger drink. After hearing medical stories from everyone the midnight crew (Dr. Cole, Yusra, Tawa, and myself) went on our typical walk. Our walk lasted about an hour and we talked about THC and CBD. We must’ve dove too deep into the conversation because we ended up deep in the village/farmland with no way out. We ended up needing the help of a local to get back home and needed flashlights because of how dark it had gotten. That experience kind of summarizes the culture here of kindness and helpfulness.
Saturday was a great day.
Yours,
Manny
Friday, January 23, 2026
Ilula Minnesota International Healthcare Conference Day 2
Thursday and Friday were devoted to presenting our 11th annual Ilula Minnesota International HealthCare Conference. Starting in 2014, Shoulder to Shoulder has presented the annual conference for our colleagues in Tanzania. All our presenters did a great job and all the healthcare professional teams that attended gave positive feedback and will return to their hospitals with knowledge and skills in quality improvement to implement based on what they learned. We are in the process of compiling the feedback from the evolutions, but the initial informal feedback has been overwhelmingly positive, both from attendees and presenters.
Our first course was presented in January 2014 with 30 attendees. Based on extremely positive feedback from the initial conference, our partners in Tanzania encouraged us to significantly expand the conference to offer this educational experience to a much larger audience of caregivers. As a result, we expanded the conference to include all 26 Southern Zone Lutheran Hospitals and the program has grown to include 130 healthcare professionals. From each hospital we invite one doctor, one nurse, one pharmacist, and one administrator.
Our conference is based on 5 principles:
1. Lifelong Learning. We believe all professionals should contribute to a culture of learning and continuously learn to improve our practice.
2. Interprofessional teamwork. We include nursing, pharmacy, administrators, and physicians in both the attendance and presentations. We emphasize teamwork throughout the conference. We each bring unique knowledge and skills to share; specifically Tanzanian presenters emphasize tropical medicine and HIV, American presenters emphasize the growing global problem of chronic and non-communicable diseases.
3. Mutual Respect. We emphasize the ability for all our participants to teach and learn from each other, in spite of our differences in practice setting, culture, and socioeconomic situation. We include local leaders in planning the conference and select topics based on feedback from participants. Presentations are delivered by both US and Tanzanian professionals. The program is based on a foundation of a longstanding and ongoing relationship. The second day of the conference was clinical talks delivered entirely by Tanzanian health professionals.
4. Continuous improvement. Learning should drive improvement in practice. This year we devoted the entire first day to learning about quality improvement. Cole, Maureen and Theresa did an outstanding job presenting on quality improvement
5. Sustainable Impact. We believe that education and improvement are some of the most valuable ways to promote a sustainable positive impact on the health of our partners’ communities.
Our conference is accredited by the Education Department at the Fairview to provide participants with educational credits for participation in this program.
Funding for the course is provided through generous contributions from several foundations and individuals including Global Health Ministries, The Peter J King Family Foundation, and Fairview Health System. We could always use additional financial support to continue this conference in the future.You can donate to the conference fund through Shoulder to Shoulder. All funds raised go entirely to hosting the conference, and support for local Tanzanian staff to attend, including meals, travel and lodging expenses. We want to thank all our donors for their generous support. I would also like to thank fellow Course Directors Dr. Mufwimi Saga and Fr Manfred Mjengwa, Shoulder to Shoulder founders Randy Hurley and Gary Moody, Ken Olson, Shana Steinbeck and all the presenters for all their hard work and critical contributions. Special thanks to Cindy Wilke for helping to plan for the conference
We believe that fostering leaning through the conference principles is one of the important ways we can improve the health of the population in and around Ilula. Overall the conference was a great chance to learn together, build relationships, and plan together to improve healthcare in Tanzania.
Thursday, January 22, 2026
Day 9
Day 9 brought us to Iringa for the eleventh Ilula–Minnesota International Healthcare Conference. Dr. John Kvascicka facilitated the conference, and I had the opportunity to present alongside Cole and my mom, Teresa.
This year, 140 healthcare leaders attended from 26 hospitals across Tanzania. Each hospital sent an interprofessional team of physicians, nurses, clinical officers, pharmacists, administrators and other hospital leaders.
The conference began in 2015 with 30 participants. The growth of the conference is a direct reflection of the thoughtful relationships that have been built over time and a shared commitment to lifelong learning.
This year’s focus centered on quality improvement. While we covered many topics, one core theme was: Change does not happen overnight; it happens one step at a time, one day at a time, one problem at a time. In Swahili, the message was captured as, “Kidogo kidogo, kidogo kinakuwa kikubwa.” Which means little by little, a little becomes a lot.
For me personally, having the opportunity to co-lead the conference with my mom was certainly unforgettable.
Day 9 reinforced a simple truth - that improvement begins with the belief that tomorrow will be better than today. I am inspired by the Tanzanian leaders’ commitment and excited to see them bring these new quality improvement tools back to their teams, positively impacting the lives of patients and staff.
- Maureen
Wednesday, January 21, 2026
Day 8 - Illula
Hello! I’m Teresa, a supply chain administrator traveling with the Global Health Ministries administrative consulting team alongside Maureen, Cole, and Cindy.
21 January 2026 The Private Ward
The Ilula Hospital has an inpatient bed capacity of around
100 patients distributed between the maternity ward, and general ward. Ten beds
are devoted to the private ward. As the
name implies, each patient on this ward has a single-private room and private
bathroom. The cost is obviously more than
the general ward but these costs can be submitted to the National Health
Insurance Fund (NHIF) for reimbursement.
Here is a capsule summary of the 8 patients occupying the 10
rooms on the private ward today. It provides a snapshot of common diagnoses
requiring hospitalization at the Ilula Hospital:
1.
A 7 yr old boy admitted with acute watery
diarrhea
2.
A 37 yr old male with amebic dysentery
3.
A 60 yr old woman with complicated malaria
4.
A 4 yr old boy
with clinical pneumonia
5.
A 33 yr old man with non-amebic dysentery
6.
A 93 yr old woman with suspected TB given her
respiratory symptoms and fact that a family member with HIV had died of TB in
the past year
7.
An 18 month old with acute watery diarrhea
8.
A 20 yr old female with acute watery diarrhea
and abdominal pain
It is now the beginning of the rainy season here in
Tanzania. Diarrhea and dysentery are
the result of poor access to clean
water and sanitation. The number of cases typically spikes during the start of
the rainy season due to surface water contamination of water sources.
Randy Hurley
Tuesday, January 20, 2026
Day 7 - Ilula
Hello! I’m Cole Wensman, a quality improvement consultant with our Global Health Ministries consulting team, alongside my fellow healthcare administrators Maureen, Theresa, and the illustrious Cindy. We’re here to help facilitate a quality improvement conference on Thursday and Friday and to develop a recommendation for the diocese as it considers upgrading Ilula Hospital to a Regional Referral Hospital. (If you’re curious about Tanzania’s tiers of care, Cindy covered that nicely in her 1/17 post.)
We started the day attending devotions and morning report with hospital leadership and the management team. After prayers and readings, the pastor offered a homily focused on trust in what God has given us, forgiveness, and choosing to focus on the positive rather than the negative (a helpful perspective when reflecting on the resource gap between Tanzania and higher-income countries). Department leaders then shared announcements, followed by a financial report from the previous day.
When the morning report transitioned to the clinical discussion, our intrepid group of non-clinical healthcare administrators broke off to meet with Alamu Kikoti, the hospital administrator. Meanwhile, our esteemed clinical colleagues—Cole, Tawa, Yusra, Manny, Randy, John, and Solvieg—continued with the report and then headed out for rounds in the wards.
Our meeting with Mr. Kikoti was informative. We learned about the competitive landscape for patients in and around Ilula, the IT systems the hospital relies on, and the potential plan to recruit specialists for ophthalmology and orthopedics, which would upgrade the hospital to a Regional Referral level.
Next, we met with Israel, the hospital’s nurse patron (roughly equivalent to a Chief Nursing Officer in the U.S.). He oversees all nursing activity, manages supply shortages, and leads training for new equipment. He explained that one of his biggest challenges is staffing. When given the opportunity, many nurses leave for government positions that offer better pay and greater job security.
After lunch, we attended a hospital board meeting that included the newly appointed diocesan general secretary, Shadrack. Board members shared updates on hospital projects and staffing, and Randy provided news from Shoulder to Shoulder. We left as the board paused for lunch, giving us time to debrief the morning’s conversations and prepare materials for the upcoming quality improvement conference.
Our final interview of the day was with Frank Sanga, head of Pharmacy, who walked us through the process of purchasing medications and medical supplies. In the evening, most of our group took a long walk around town. I’m writing this as we get ready for dinner.
A bit of potpourri for the committed reader:
We stumbled upon choir practice during morning prayer, and I continue to be amazed by the people of Ilula’s ability to sing beautifully, especially as a group, seemingly at the drop of a hat
During clinical report, Manny shared insights from his time in the pharmacy, sparking a discussion on the ethics of drug patents and the tension between incentivizing innovation and providing affordable medications to as many people as possible
Randy also shared that there isn’t a strong culture of blood donation in Tanzania. In the past, when blood was needed, families were often asked which relative could donate who was least likely to have HIV
Talking about competition in healthcare here feels a bit strange—why compete when so many need care? But it becomes relevant when certain, more complex, services can command higher reimbursement…a dynamic that feels surprisingly familiar to those of us from the U.S.
Day 6 CTC at Ilula
We met a well-appearing middle-aged woman in the CTC (HIV
Care and Treatment Clinic) at Ilula today that has been on HIV antiretroviral
(ARV) drug therapy for 15 years. When
asked her age, she replied that she did not know! She had not been able to attend school when
she was young so was not actually aware of her date or year of birth. Ponder that simple thought for a moment—if
you actually did not know how old you were—would that be a good thing or a bad
thing? What must it feel like to not be
aware of your age—is that the definition of being able to act as young as you
feel?
We were here at Ilula 20 years ago in January of 2006 when
the HIV program first started. Now, 20
years later, the CTC remains robust, and even despite USAID withdrawl from
support, patients have access to free ARVs.
There are now more than 2800 patients currently on ARVs at the Ilula
CTC. The clinic provides rather
comprehensive care including nutrition counseling, hypertension screening,
routine TB screening, gender-based-violence screening, contraception and
cervical cancer screening. Now, 20 years
later, we rarely, if ever see cases of advanced HIV, such as PCP pneumonia, cryptococcal meningitis or
disseminated herpes zoster on the inpatient ward.
In 2016, the late Paul Farmer’s group, Partners in Health, reported
a 53% 10-year survival of the first cohort of patients (910) that were
initiated on ARVs in Haiti in 2006 (Pierre et al, New Engl J Med 2016;374:397).
The argument at the time was whether complicated HIV care could safely be
delivered in a very resource constrained health care system. This prompted us
to look at our 10-year follow up data in 2016.
Of an initial 763 patients started on ARVs in 2006, 45% were alive in
2016.
Now we are at the 20-year anniversary of the initiation of
the HIV CTC at Ilula. Of the original cohort, 233 have moved out of the
catchment area and thus not available for follow up. Of the remaining 520 patients, 24% are still
alive and receiving therapy. I cannot
find data from programs in similar resource constrained settings to
compare. Although this seems like a low
number, it obviously is a meaningful outcome for those patients who are still
alive and able to receive active treatment! And, hopefully, these patients are
also able to act as young as they feel
Randy Hurley
Monday, January 19, 2026
Wish I was in Ilula....
To quote the song lyric,"Baby it's cold outside!"
Yes, that's -6 F (-21C).
But the main draw would be to see all our friends in Ilula and Iringa!
Here is the group:
Sunday, January 18, 2026
Day 5
I’m a retired scientist/engineer, traveling with my wife Cindy on this trip. The journey to Tanzania was long and tiring, but also fascinating. Our flight took us over Switzerland and parts of Italy, then down along the eastern edge of the Adriatic. The views of the mountains from above were spectacular. We crossed the Mediterranean and entered Egypt just west of Cairo. If not for the heavy cloud cover, we might have glimpsed the pyramids — but c’est la vie.
Our accommodations in Moshi were excellent, and visiting the hospital there was truly interesting. Getting to and from the hospital in a Bajaji reminded me what traffic in the developing world can be like—chaotic but somehow functional. I certainly wouldn’t want to drive here myself, and I have great appreciation for our skillful drivers who somehow got us everywhere safely and without a single scrape. Their precision and patience were impressive. Next stop: Dar es Salaam for an overnight stay.
From Dar, we took the high-speed train—“high-speed” meaning around 75 mph, though capable of 160—to Morogoro, where our next adventure began. The main east–west road across Tanzania is a two-lane highway, thick with truck traffic hauling freight inland from Dar. It was remarkably smooth for the first couple of hours, but as we reached the mountains, things changed. Traffic slowed, and the passing maneuvers—so frequent and daring—became downright hair-raising. Picture narrow, winding mountain roads, torrential rain, vehicles following within ten feet of each other, and constant passing through it all—it was a ride Disney couldn’t dream up!
After what became a very long day, including a two-hour traffic jam, we finally arrived in Ilula. We were greeted with warmth, a delicious meal, and a comfortable place to stay for the next two weeks.
Today we attended a 2 hour church service all in swahili so we understood almost nothing, but the music was fatastic!
I’m looking forward to visiting the orphanage tomorrow and finding ways to help out—perhaps doing some teaching and learning alongside the kids.
Bob Wilke
Saturday, January 17, 2026
DAY 4 Comprehensive Cancer Center at KCMC
As a retired health administrator and founder of the Global Health Ministries (GHM) Consulting department, I’ve seen many projects, but few as significant as the one that began in 2016: providing administrative consulting for a new cancer center at in Moshi, Tanzania.
- Dispensary: The first point of contact, essentially a medical clinic staffed by a nurse.
- Health Center: A referral level staffed by clinical officers.
- District Hospital: Higher-level care staffed by physicians.
- Regional Referral Hospital: Providing specialized district-wide services.
- Zonal Referral Hospital: Specialized care for specific regions; KCMC serves roughly 15 million people in Northern Tanzania.
- National Hospital: The highest level of care.
- Outpatient Clinics and Infusion: Opened in December 2016.
- In-patient Wards: Opened in December 2020.
- Radiation Therapy: Beginning next month, powered by a new linear accelerator currently undergoing calibration and training.
January 28th (our last clinical day) and ethical dilemmas in global health
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